Cold proofing is just the same as regular proofing, except it’s done at a cold temperature (instead of room temperature). Because of the reduction in temperature, the proof will take longer, for the same amount of yeast.
This method has a couple of advantages, which I’ll try my best to explain in this article. Keep reading to find out everything you need to know.
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The most common way to do cold proofing is in the fridge. The dough still needs to be covered, as normal, to prevent the dough from drying out (and forming a thick skin).
As long as the temperatures aren’t freezing, the yeast can still work, it will just be slower. Dough can be frozen to preserve it for a bigger length of time but that’s typically not the goal of cold proofing. It’s simply used as a way to control the proof.
If you’re interested, click here to check out my article on freezing pizza dough.
Probably the main benefit to cold proofing pizza dough is the predictability that it provides. The fridge remains at a consistent temperature so therefore, the temperature outside the fridge doesn’t affect the proofing of the dough. This can be particularly useful to people living in warm climates (not something I experience often, being from the UK).
Additionally, cold proofing can be an excellent option for leftover dough. The surplus dough can be knocked back (click here to check out my article on that), and proofed again overnight in the fridge. Because the prove happens more slowly, the dough shouldn’t overprove.
Cold proofed dough isn’t necessarily better but it does tend to produce a more distinct (sour) flavour. I would recommend that you try room temperature proofing and cold proofing to see which you prefer.
With cold proof dough, the yeast works slower but the bacteria (which is not harmful) tends to reproduce relatively quicker. The resulting dough therefore tends to be more sour, more like sourdough. Some people prefer this flavour and others don’t.
Some people would argue that the increased levels of bacteria are beneficial healthwise. In my opinion, there isn’t enough evidence to support this and I don’t see pizza as a health food anyway. So my view on this comes at it more from a taste perspective.
Personally, I enjoy the increased sourness but I can see why some people might not. However, this also depends on how long you proof for. If you cold proof for 72 hours you should get more sourness than if you cold proof for 48 hours.
At the end of the day, I think it’s fun to experiment and figure out what you enjoy. Even if you prefer dough that’s proofed at room temperature, you can still use cold proofing for preserving leftovers (for the following day). To be honest, this is what I mostly use cold proving for.
Cold proofing is just as simple as regular proofing really. You just need to make sure you have enough space in the fridge for your dough.
The pizza dough still needs to be sealed, such as in an airtight container. This prevents the dough from drying out and forming a skin on the surface.
A pizza proofing box is ideal for all types of fermentation, including cold proofing in the fridge. Alternatively, you can place the dough in bowls and seal them with plastic wrap (cling film).
Dough should rise during a cold proof just like dough during a room temperature proof. The main difference is that the rise will happen much slower.
However, the dough should start rising quicker again once it has been removed from the fridge. It’s important to allow for this, to avoid over-proofed dough.
One of the keys to making great pizza is ensuring that the dough is at room temperature before shaping. It should also be at room temperature before cooking.
When dough is at room tempeature it is much softer and easier to shape. This should help you to achieve a pizza that is thin in the middle but light and airy in the crust.
For deatailed instructions (with a video), click here to check out my article on pizza shaping. Skilled shaping can transform good pizza to great pizza!
Additionally, pizza dough that enters the oven at room temperature tends to cook better than cold pizza dough. When the dough is too cold it can lead to excessive “leapording”. This is where the crust itself doesn’t brown properly, but there are many spots of dark crust that are overcooked.
There seems to be a trend online with trying to create pizzas with more “leoparding”. However, in traditional Neapolitan making, this is known as “measles” pizza (not “leoparding”) – and it’s generally considered a defect. A small amount is fine, especially if the crust itself has browned nicely.
Personally, I would just ensure that your pizza dough is at room temperature before cooking. This should ensure that you don’t get too much “leoparding” – leading to “measles” pizza.
Typically, cold proof pizza dough is left to rise for at least 24 hours. However, 48 hours is probably more common. This should ensure a nice texture to the dough with an increased sour flavour.
In fact, it’s not unusual for cold pizza dough to be left to prove for 48 to 72 hours. This length of time tends to produce a more sour flavour profile – more like sourdough.
Also, with a very long prove, the proof of the dough is arguably more reliable. This is because it remains in a temperature controlled environment (such as a fridge) for as long as possible.
However, as with room temperature dough, extending a prove beyond 48 to 72 hours presents a risk. The dough may lose strength, making the pizza more difficult to shape. If the dough cannot be shaped properly the desired texture in the pizza cannot be achieved (thin in the middle with a light and airy crust).
Therefore, I would recommend a cold proof of up to 48 hours. If you want to experiment with longer proofs I suggest getting some pizza flour that is intended specifically for long proofs. This should be a stronger flour which will allow the dough’s strength to hold up for longer.
I have used Caputo Pizzeria flour for proves of around 72 hours with great results. Being a professional pizza flour, it’s made to withstand long proves.
You can in fact cold proof any dough, not just pizza dough. I tend to think of cold proofing as another tool in my arsenal. There’s times when I just know it will produce a better dough, or make my life easier.
For example, I’ll often knock back leftover dough. This technique effectively resets the dough and allows it to prove again. Instead of going to waste, your dough can be used again. Click here to check out my article on knocking back dough.
However, after knocking back, dough usually proves quite quickly. To ensure the dough is good to use the next day (not overproofed) I’ll usually refrigerate it. This cold proofs the dough, meaning it’ll be proofed in around another 24 hours instead of just another 4 or 5 hours.
In fact, you could cold proof leftover pizza dough and then use it to make focaccia or ciabatta. Or, you could make some purpose-made ciabatta dough (which typically has a higher hydration than pizza dough) and cold proof this. You may find you develop more flavour in your ciabatta using this technique.
In general, you would need a lot more yeast for cold fermented dough to achieve a similar proof time. This is to counter how slower the dough proofs at colder temperatures. Alternatively, you can give the dough more time.
Imagine an experiment where we proofed one batch of dough in the fridge and another batch of dough at room temperature, for 24 hours. To achieve a properly proofed dough, we would probably need around 8 to 10 times as much yeast for the cold proofed dough. That’s right, eight to ten times as much!
For example, let’s say the 24 hour room temperature proof required just 0.3g of yeast, the 24 hour cold proof would probably require around 3g of yeast.
However, don’t forget that the cold proofed dough would need to be removed from the fridge before shaping. For pizza, cold proofed dough should be allowed to get back to room temperature before shaping and cooking the pizza. In fact, I would recommend allowing the dough to get to room temperature before balling.
Therefore, a “cold proofed” dough may actually spend just as much time out of the fridge as in it, depending on the length of prove. And since dough proves much quicker out of the fridge, the amount of yeast required reduces drastically.
In this case, you may only need about twice as much yeast in your dough.
For example, let’s say you’re doing a 24 hour fermentation which consists of 12 hours in the fridge and 12 hours at room temperature. In this case, you probably only need around 0.6g of yeast (double) as opposed to the 0.3g for a “normal” room temperature prove.
To be truthful, there isn’t an exact science to this. A lot of it comes from experience and finding out what works for you and your preferred routine.
Having said that, I’ll show you what works for me, and it doesn’t require any maths or anything.
Cold proofing pizza dough for 48 hours is very common. It produces an excellent dough with almost any flour and it’s very simple to do. This is where I would recommend to start experimenting with cold proofing.
In fact, this is the way I cold proof my dough most of the time. There’s a few reasons for this, let me explain…
Firstly, I find that I can just make my regular 24 hour recipe but leave the dough in the fridge for an extra day and it will work out just fine. I find that any of my 24 hour recipes work great for this.
If you wanted, you could use poolish dough, or even sourdough.
The other main reason I like this recipe is that I can refrigerate any leftovers for a 72 hour cold proof dough the following day. Bear in mind that I recommend using a high quality pizza flour such as Caputo Pizzeria to ensure enough strength for cold proofing.
Personally, I find that once you start going over 72 hours, the dough starts rapidly dropping off in terms of quality. This is true even if you’re using a high quality pizza flour such as Caputo.
For example, if I made 72 hour cold proof dough, any leftovers would be approaching 100 hours old. They would have probably lost most of their strength and be particularly sour. I really dislike waste so this isn’t ideal.
If I aim for a 48 hour proof but I don’t end up making pizza for some reason (rain springs to mind – I live in England), it’s not an issue. I can simply knock back the dough if it’s overproofing (although it’ll probably be OK) and leave it in the fridge until the next day.
This way, I’ll have some nice 72 hour dough to work with on the following day (when hopefully the sun is out).
Finally, I find that 48 hour cold proof dough strikes a nice balance on the flavour front. It produces a bit of extra sourness without going too far.
After all, some people aren’t keen on the extra sourness.
In my view, I’d say the differences between cold and warm proof pizza are fairly small. I think the prefered method should come down to personal choice.
For me, the biggest benefit to cold proofing is that it offers a more consistent proofing environment. This could be the selling point, especially if you live in a warm climate (and not the UK, like me!).
I’d say the other main difference is the flavour of the dough but this comes down to personal preference anyway.
Another point is that many people believe that warm proofed dough offers a more “open” crumb. This would make sense since yeast ferments optimally at a warmer temperature.
However, I think any differences are pretty minimal. Also, you may not want pizza with a large airy crust anyway.
As mentioned previously, one way in which I always do cold proofing is for leftovers. I hate wasting dough and cold proofing immediately solves that issue. That’s a clear win for cold proofing!
For me, the main downside to cold proofing is the space it takes up in the fridge! As long as you’re not making loads of pizzas though it’s not a big issue, unless you have a small fridge I guess.
At the end of the day, I’d say that both cold and warm proof pizza has it’s place.
Cold proofing is not really traditional for Neapolitan pizza. However, that doesn’t mean it doesn’t make great Neapolitan style dough. In my opinion, it’s an excellent option.
The traditional method in Naples is to proof the dough at room temperature, usually for around 24 hours. For example, like my Authentic Neapolitan Recipe here.
However, as the weather changes throughout the season, the amount of yeast used also has to change. With experience, this can be done. You could also use my Pizza Dough Calculator here.
Cold proofing takes some of the guess work out of the equation. As long as you allow the dough to get to room temperature before the final proof, you should end up with similar pizza to warm proofing.
The recipe on this page is for Neapolitan style pizza but you can always adjust the hydration to make New York style pizza, for example. Any dough can be made using the cold proofing method, the technique remains the same.
With that being said, let’s get into the recipe.
Neapolitan style cold proofed pizza dough
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Makes 4 x 10 inch pizzas.
Note: You can click on the links to check out the ingredients on Amazon. Also, check out my Authentic Neapolitan pizza recipe here for the amount of ingredients required when using bread flour (instead of 00 flour).
With 00 flour (recommended):
Note: Caputo 00 pizza flour is an excellent option, especially for cold proof pizza. It is one of the more widely available “professional” pizza flours. I have used it extensively for long proofing (both cold and warm).
My chef’s bag of Caputo 00 flour – click here to check the availability on Amazon
Note: I use instant dried yeast and active dried yeast interchangeably, I’d say just use whichever you have available. You can also try fresh yeast if you like, you may find it provides more flavour. For more information, check out my article on fresh yeast here.
I find that dried yeast works great for cold proofing, and it keeps really well! Click here to check it out on Amazon.
Not all the following utensils are required but these are what I use and they tend to make the process much easier.
Any large bowl could be used for mixing the dough but I like using the metal ones since they’re lightweight, stackable, and easy to clean.
Click here to check out metal mixing bowls like the ones I have on Amazon.
These are affordable, easy to use, and precise (accurate to 1g). I don't recommend using cups as measurements as they are inprecise.
Click here to take a look at the type of digital scales I use on Amazon.
These kitchen scales are accurate to 0.01g and are perfect for measuring the tiny amounts of yeast needed for long proves.
Pizza proofing boxes are an excellent investment. They are airtight and they make taking the dough out for shaping very easy.
Stick blenders allow for very easy sauce making. They're also really easy to clean, and can be used in any bowl.
An infrared thermometer allows you to instantly check the temperature of the stone, ensuring it is within the ideal range.
Click here to check out a pizza peel similar to the one I use on Amazon.
A 12 inch peel is ideal for Neapolitan pizza and makes loading and removing your pizza from the oven really easy.
Click here to check out a pizza peel similar to the one I use on Amazon.
A turning peel is designed for rotating the pizza during cooking. If you're using a pizza oven it should lead to a superior and more even cook.
Click here to check out a pizza peel similar to the one I use on Amazon.
A pizza oven is guarenteed to take your pizzas to the next level. I have an Ooni Karu 16 which reaches 500C/930F and cooks pizza in as little as 60 seconds! A regular oven simply cannot match the cook of a pizza oven. I love my Ooni!
Tips:
Feel free to check out my article (with a video) on mixing pizza dough by hand here.
You can round the dough off for proofing if you like but it shouldn’t really make much difference.
Use some digital scales to weigh out your dough balls (accurately)
Allow the final proof to happen at room temperature, as you would with regular warm proofing. I like to use my proofing box for this.
You can usually get some scales like these for a good price online
This is what 0.3g of yeast (active dried) looks like on a teaspoon
Keep reading for my final thoughts and then the comments below that. Also, feel free to leave me a question and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
Cold proofing is not necessarily better, it’s just another technique in your arsenal. Experiment with it and see what it’s like, you may find you prefer it.
Personally, I like cold proofing for it’s practicality. It offers quite a large proofing window, making it easier to get properly proofed dough.
For one, it takes away a lot of the proofing variability due to temperature. This is because no matter what time of year it is, your fridge is always at the same temperature (hopefully).
For one, cold proofing offers excellent consistency
I also like using cold proofing for leftovers. I simply knock back any leftovers and then refrigerate them. The next day, I can remove them and ball them up as normal.
However, as mentioned previously, I don’t generally recommend proofing for longer than a total of 72 hours. The chances are your dough will probably have lost too much strength to make great pizza.
Hopefully this article has helped you to understand cold proofing better. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave me a comment below and I’ll answer it as soon as I can.
Good luck!
I’m Tom Rothwell and I’m super passionate about all kinds of homemade pizza! In the last few years I've been on a quest to find the perfect pizza. Now I'm sharing what I've found out with the world!
If you're interested in hiring me for your event in the UK, feel free to check out my website with the link below.
Pizza Catering
I often get asked what type of oven I use for my pizzas. Well, I use a pizza oven made by a company called Ooni.
The range of pizza ovens that Ooni offers is just brilliant. They cover all bases, and all price points. There's affordable and portable models such as the Fyra 12 Pizza Oven and then there's state-of-the-art models such as the Karu 16 Pizza Oven pictured below.
In all honesty, I would say that the oven makes a huge difference. If you're looking to make authentic Italian pizza, a pizza oven is a must.
By clicking the link below and purchasing from Ooni, you would be supporting this website. I've been using their ovens for a long time now and I wouldn't recommend them if I didn't believe in their products.
Time to make some amazing pizza!
I’m Tom Rothwell and I’m super passionate about all kinds of homemade pizza! In the last few years I've been on a quest to find the perfect pizza. Now I'm sharing what I've found out with the world!
If you're interested in hiring me for your event in the UK, feel free to check out my website with the link below.
Pizza Catering